Like a singer with a unique voice, it is a sign of a talented designer when a collection represents their aesthetic, but at the same time, marks a departure. Bora Aksu's Autumn/Winter 2010 collection did just that. The inspiration this season was 'Marie Antoinette meets Edward Scissorhands'. A rather 'odd' combination, but in fact, this encapsulates it well. The tone was indeed more muted than we are used to seeing, but it certainly wasn't understated. Firstly, candyfloss colours, such as pale blue, dusky pink, and lilacs that are usually associated with Spring/Summer, seemed an unusual choice for Autumn/Winter. But, if these doll-like looks seemed 'innocent' at any point, perspective was re-aligned by pairing them with the usual tough, black, slimline leggings, which divided the looks in half. The choice of lightweight fabric was purely inspirational, with sheer sections adding transparency in both the softer and darker items. Aksu also played around with effects - shiny metallic and even scaled materials - added depth with the combination of matte and gloss in individual pieces. The innovative technique of 'adding onto' a tailored silhouette made the pieces three-dimensional and craftsmanship was truly noted. In terms of shape, hips were accentuated through piping, but in a creatively decorative way, as opposed to strong, hard-edged and sculptural pieces, which are perhaps getting a bit, dare i say it, 'out-dated'. Overall, with the lightness of the pieces in fabric and in colour, it was a collection of darkened 'prettiness' - made up of delicately fabricated garments combined with a barrage of accents and complicated cobweb overlays. It showed true finesse and was a definite triumph of texture. - Annie Chin